2021 Jean Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc

The 2021 Jean Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc could be one of the most profound white wines I have tasted this entire year, Burgundy included.  I know when we think of Hermitage it's always the rouge that comes to mind. Rightfully so, as it is truly one of the greatest wines produced on the planet! What most don’t realize is that Chave produces a Hermitage Blanc very much its equal. In fact, in a vintage like 2021, the blanc is the brightest star in the cellar!

What they do is pure genius. I liken it to a Chef du Cave in Champagne; they have a canvas with which to work, drawing on what the various lieu dits have to offer. What this yields is a wine with amazing richness and volume, but not for one second does that take away from the sheer precision and energy.  

White flower and quince on the nose gives way to a mouth coating richness that I can only describe as having “Montrachet” type volume with a finish that leaves your mouth invigorated and craving another sip. It's about 20 seconds after you swallow that the cannonball absolutely explodes in your mouth revealing a honeyed, white peach cornucopia of flavors which truly needs to be experienced to be appreciated.  

I'm absolutely blown away by the quality this wine displays. An absolute masterpiece!  Bravo!

— STORY —

The history of the Chave lineage can be traced back from father to son since 1481. Think about that for a second. The Chaves have been making wine since before Columbus accidentally bumped into the Bahamas thinking it was Asia! The Chaves have enjoyed a rich history in the region and moved to their present day location in Mauves in the 1800’s; when they began to purchase vineyards on the Hill of Hermitage.

I was fortunate enough to visit the cellar back in the late 90’s. At the time, young Jean Louis was just assuming control of the estate after receiving a degree in oenology from UC Davis (go Aggies!...I’m a proud father with a daughter starting her sophomore year there). I was still a child myself when visiting and didn't quite understand how many different climates there were on the hill of Hermitage, nor how the varying soil types played a part in the masterpiece called Hermitage. What I did get to see first hand was the process of how the Chave’s blend the various climates into a singular expression of Hermitage; they were in the process of putting the assemblage together on the day I visited.

To say it left an impression is an understatement. I’ve followed the Chave wines since and am particularly proud of the 20+ vintages of Chave Hermitage in my own cellar, although I’m guilty of under-representing the blanc, but after this recent near religious experience, I intend to remedy that.  

The Hermitage Blanc is made from a blend which consists of 80-85% Marasanne and 15-20% Roussane. The vinification is pretty typical, fermentation in barrel, 24 months aging. All vineyards are harvested and vinified separately and then the final blend is assembled in tank, where it rests 6 months prior to bottling.

The Chaves own a total of 14 hectares of vines on the hill of Hermitage.  They are the 4th largest landowner spread out over 11 lieu dits (behind Chapoutier (34) Jaboulet (25) Co-op (21)). The red is made from 7 while the white is composed from 4 located on the western portion of the hill. Most of the hill is quite steep and the vineyards are terraced. All work is done by hand.

Here’s more information about those lieu dits:

Rocoules: A mid-slope site of clay and limestone dominated by white grapes, these are some of the oldest vines on the hill with many parcels at or near 100 years of age.  This is the section that makes up the bulk of the Chave Hermitage Blanc.

Hermite: A monopole owned by the Chave family since 1984. Located at the very top of the Hermitage hill and has a range of soil types, including granite and loess. 

Péléat: Another monopole that lies adjacent to Rocoules. Stony, sandy soil provides wines that are firmer and more complex. 

Maison Blanche: A fairly large vineyard which lies above Rocoules. The soil is iron-rich clay with a top layer of fine loess.