2021 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Rouge
When people talk about a reference point White Burgundy, it’s likely that Domaine Ramonet will be mentioned. If you have tasted the wines you would agree, they are truly profound! But can one of the greatest addresses for White Burgundy also make outstanding red wine?
Unequivocally, YES!!!
We’ve been writing a lot lately about Chassagne Montrachet Rouge. There was a time when the idea of it could make you cringe. As a dutiful retailer, the only reason we’d buy a couple of cases was to play the importer’s game and get allocations of the producer’s white wines. But now…with the warming climate, IT IS ALL CHANGING. As a buyer it has been my business to taste these. Frankly, otherwise, as a consumer, “no thanks”. I probably would have died misinformed and ignorant about the dramatic, historical shifts this region has undergone and how they impacted the resurgence of rouge that the region is experiencing today. Outstanding Chassagne Montrachet Rouge is not a fluke, it’s here to stay.
Don’t get caught on your heels. Some of the most respected white wine producers are making fantastic reds and more are joining.
What is happening!? Read on….
If we go back 40-50 years, Chassagne Montrachet was planted more to pinot noir than to chardonnay. At the time, prices for Chassagne Montrachet were on the low side, no one was thinking about climate change and many producers felt it was easier to sell whites over reds. Thus, a trend started where many producers tore out pinot noir in favor of chardonnay.
Yet, the deeper, fatter, clay soils in most of the village are suited to pinot noir more than to chardonnay. Those that decided to stay the course (Ramonet, Moreau, both Pillots) and keep their pinot noir vines are now reaping some huge benefits. Not only are the vines well over 50 years old, they are benefiting from the added sunshine and warmer climate, which is allowing the vines to ripen the grapes on a consistent basis.
Gone are the days of thin, green, acidic wines that are difficult to drink. We are seeing sappy, rich, fruit driven wines that I dare say rival some of the wines being produced farther north.
If you have not been paying attention to what is happening in Chassagne Montrachet, before you are accused of living under a rock, I invite you to cut your teeth with some of the best!
