2022 Bitouzet Prieur Volnay 1er Clos des Chenes
“I have to agree with Bitouzet - he has crafted first-rate wines in 2022. Moreover, he has done so in both color.”
I have spent the better part of this past month writing about the tremendous white Burgundies currently hitting the market. No doubt, you have seen an offer or two from Bitouzet, as his Meursaults are among the top wines. Lets’ not forget however that as good as 2022 is for the white wines, it may be a better vintage for the reds!
The Bitouzet family has been firmly planted in Volnay since the early 1800’s. They were one of the first family domaines to actually bottle their own wine, and over the last 200+ years have amassed 8 hectares of some of the best vineyards in Volnay - Clos des Chenes, Caillerets, Pitures, Mitans.
In the past, my knock on the Bitouzet Prieur red wines was that they were produced in a very old school style; hard, rustic, structured wines that take decades to come around, if they ever do at all. I can appreciate this style with 20+ years of age, however anyone getting into Burgundy within the last 10 years may not even recognize it, and quite frankly, probably not care for it.
Enter Francois Bitouzet, the only son of Vincent Bitouzet and Anne Prieur. Like so many of these old family domaines, the new generation comes along and ushers out many of the old traditional practices and completely transforms the domaine into something almost unrecognizable.
Francois assumed control of the Domaine in 2012 and immediately transitioned to organic farming - no more pesticides and fertilizers. To make great wine is a process and commitment to a vision. You can’t just flip the switch and the next year you are making great wines. It's been 10+ years now and we see year in and year out Francois produce wines of the finest caliber.
I really started paying attention to this Domaine in 2017 and in 2021 finally got a chance to visit Francois at his recently completed new facility in the industrial section of Meursault. It makes sense when you see this facility why this Domaine is producing such great wines. Start with some of the best terroir, then add to that, every modern winemaking piece of equipment you could imagine, along with the space to work in a more precise and efficient way. Imagine building your dream winery with a blank check!?
This new facility has been an absolute game changer for Bitouzet Prieur. Francois controls every aspect of the winemaking process and has completely transformed the style. The wines still have structure but there is now an opulence and fruit component to the wines. The rustic style has been replaced with a style that is more fruit driven but still maintaining a very strong sense of place. If you have not checked in on these wines recently I highly suggest doing so - the wines have never been better!
I think 2022 offers a real sweet spot for the Clos des Chenes. You have the opulence of sunny ripeness that 2022 offers in perfect harmony with the structure and minerality from old vine Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes.
