2022 Domaine Clos des Rocs Pouilly Loche

Although it is the smallest appellation in France with only 32 hectares, there is a lot happening in Pouilly Loche! It does well for itself neighboring Pouilly Fuisse (which we all know is an exceptional place for growing Chardonnay and has had many vineyards elevated to Premier Cru). Domaine Clos des Rocs is not a new name at Vins Rare. We have been working with the wines since 2015 and many of you already know the magic of these wines. Stay tuned, it only gets better!

Back when Pouilly Loche was lobbying for its vineyards to be considered Premier Cru status, I visited Olivier Giroux of Domaine Clos des Rocs. At the time he was the mayor of the town and leading the charge for the vineyards seeking this status elevation. Seeing the cellar, walking in the vineyards and spending time with him, it’s easy to feel his passion and become a true-believer in what he is doing.  And it turns out, the status upgrade that began earlier this year speaks for itself.

With the 2024 harvest, Olivier’s efforts paid off and a number of Pouilly Loche’s vineyards were elevated to Premier Cru status. Yet, the man remains humble. Olivier sees his job as that of a caretaker preserving and nourishing a healthy vine, to pass along to the next generation. Immediately upon taking over the domaine, Olivier knew organic farming was the path forward but took it a step further when he converted to biodynamics in 2006. The arduous, expensive road to biodynamic certification finally came in 2014.

It's nice to see them being recognized with 1er cru status. In the maps you can see the domaine’s location, the Clos Rocs, right next to the winery and its proximity to Les Mures. The 9 hectares that make up Les Mures are being elevated to premier cru, and knowing Clos Rocs is his top cuvee and its location what seems to be a part of Les Mures, I’d assume this is being elevated as well. I don’t have confirmation of that but know the quality of the wine! It is more than deserving of 1er cru status.  

Also, I’m not sure why the press has not yet reviewed the 2022’s as this is an exceptional vintage everywhere and most certainly for this estate as well.  In lieu of the professionals, below is my experience on Les Mures. While I sold a small parcel earlier in the year, I was blown away by its quality and luckily I was able to double my allocation! I have eagerly been anticipating more of the Les Mures to arrive at our warehouse, but also the first drop of the much anticipated Clos Rocs.  

Let’s all collectively pray the 1er cru status doesn’t push prices commensurate with Pouilly Fuisse. Today, you will be hard pressed to find better Chardonnay at $36 and $42. Do yourself a favor and pick some up.